The Sparkling Martinez

The Martinez is widely traced to the early 1860s at the Occidental Hotel in San Francisco, where "Professor" Jerry Thomas tended bar and, according to a persistent legend, mixed a gin-and-sweet-vermouth cocktail for a traveler on his way to the town of Martinez across the bay. The first printed recipe appeared in the 1887 edition of Thomas's *The Bartender's Guide*, calling for Old Tom gin, sweet vermouth, maraschino liqueur, Boker's bitters, and a dash of orange curaçao. Historians still debate whether the drink was born in California or named after the town, but most agree it is the direct ancestor of the dry martini, the moment when gin and vermouth first met on equal terms (Arthur's Tavern).

The Martinez is a sweeter, heavier drink than the martini that followed it. The maraschino and the Old Tom gin give it a rounded, almost confectionary quality, and the sweet vermouth provides the body of a small fortified wine. Topped with sparkling wine, the Martinez becomes a brunch aperitivo of real character. The bubbles lift the maraschino and the orange, the sweet vermouth reads as richer against the acidity of the wine, and the drink sits somewhere between a Manhattan and a Champagne cocktail in its weight and its mood.

Ingredients (serves 6): - 6 oz Old Tom gin (such as Hayman's or Ransom) - 6 oz sweet vermouth (such as Carpano Antica) - 1 oz maraschino liqueur (such as Luxardo) - ½ oz Cointreau or orange curaçao - 6 dashes orange bitters - 1 bottle (3 ⅛ cups) chilled Cava Brut or dry Prosecco - Brandied cherries and lemon twists for garnish

Instructions: Combine the gin, sweet vermouth, maraschino, Cointreau, and orange bitters in a mixing glass with ice. Stir for 30 seconds until very cold. Strain into chilled coupe glasses. Top slowly with 1½ oz chilled Cava per glass, pouring gently down the side. Garnish each glass with a brandied cherry and a thin lemon twist.

For a Crowd (serves 12): - 12 oz Old Tom gin, 12 oz sweet vermouth, 2 oz maraschino liqueur, 1 oz Cointreau, 12 dashes orange bitters - 2 bottles chilled Cava Brut - Pre-batch the gin, vermouth, and liqueurs in a pitcher over ice; stir and top with Cava at service.

Variations: - Original 1887 Martinez: Use Old Tom gin, increase the maraschino to 1 oz, and add 2 dashes Boker's or Angostura bitters for the closer-to-period profile. - Dry Martinez: Swap the Old Tom for London Dry gin and the sweet vermouth for dry vermouth, edging the drink toward a dry martini with a maraschino accent. - Martinez Royale: Increase the sparkling-wine top to 2 oz per glass for a longer, lighter brunch drink.

Pairing: The Martinez's sweet, botanical character pairs well with savory brunch dishes such as a smoked salmon bagel board, lemon-ricotta pancakes, or a charcuterie and cheese plate. Its richness also makes it a counterpoint to a classic champagne mimosa, and it sits comfortably in the same brunch flight as the pomegranate mimosa.

Reference Links: - Martinez cocktail (Jerry Thomas, Occidental Hotel, 1860s, 1887 Bartender's Guide): Arthur's Tavern

Pro Tips: Old Tom gin is the entire point of the original Martinez. London Dry makes the drink sharper and drier, which is fine, but it loses the malty, slightly sweet roundness that defines the period recipe. Sweet vermouth should be the good kind, poured from a fresh bottle, since it oxidizes quickly once opened and a tired vermouth flattens the whole drink. Stir rather than shake, since the vermouth and maraschino need to remain silky rather than aerated. Pour the Cava last and gently, so it floats through the cocktail rather than churning it.