Smith Island Cake al Brachetto

On October 1, 2008, the Smith Island cake became the official state dessert of Maryland, a tower of eight to twelve thin layers of yellow cake, each separated by a thin layer of chocolate fudge frosting, and its origin lies on Smith Island, a small isolated community in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay, accessible only by boat, with a population of fewer than three hundred (Smith Island Baking Co.). The island's residents, many of them watermen who harvest crabs and oysters, have been making the cake for generations, and the thin layers are said to have been a practical adaptation: island bakers, working with wood-burning stoves that had limited temperature control, found that thin layers baked more evenly and quickly than thick ones, and the cooked chocolate fudge between each layer kept the cake moist and, because it set to a fudge, kept longer than other frostings, which mattered for a cake sent along with watermen on the autumn oyster harvest.

The cake's path to statewide recognition began in the early 2000s, when the Smith Island baker Mary Ada Marshall began shipping the cakes to customers across the country, and in 2008 the Maryland General Assembly passed legislation designating it the official state dessert, championed by Delegate Page Elmore of the lower Eastern Shore and signed into law by Governor Martin O'Malley (Maryland State Archives).

A proper Smith Island cake has eight to ten, sometimes up to twelve, thin layers of yellow sponge, each no more than 5mm thick, separated by thin layers of a cooked chocolate fudge frosting of cocoa, sugar, butter, and evaporated milk that sets to a fudge between the layers. The ratio of frosting to cake is much higher than in a typical layer cake, and the many thin layers of fudge make it intensely rich and chocolatey throughout.

Our Mimosavated version infuses the chocolate frosting with a splash of Brachetto d'Acqui, the sweet, lightly sparkling red wine of Piedmont, whose strawberry and rose aromas add a berry note that complements the chocolate.

Ingredients (serves 12):

The Yellow Cake Layers: - 14 ⅛ oz all-purpose flour - 2 teaspoons baking powder - ½ teaspoon baking soda - ½ teaspoon salt - 8 ⅞ oz unsalted butter, room temperature - 12 ⅓ oz granulated sugar - 4 large eggs, room temperature - 2 teaspoons vanilla extract - 1 ¼ cups buttermilk, room temperature

The Brachetto Chocolate Fudge Frosting: - 7 oz unsweetened cocoa powder - 10.6 oz granulated sugar - 3 ½ oz unsalted butter - ⅞ cup evaporated milk - 3 ⅓ tbsp Brachetto d'Acqui - 1 teaspoon vanilla extract - A pinch of salt

Making the Cake Layers: Preheat the oven to 347°F (350°F). Line as many 7 ⅞ in (8-inch) round cake pans as you have with parchment paper (you'll need to bake in batches if you have fewer than 10 pans).

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a large bowl, beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each. Add the vanilla. Gradually add the dry ingredients, alternating with the buttermilk, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients.

Divide the batter into 10 equal portions (about 2 ⅞ oz each — use a kitchen scale for accuracy). Spread each portion thinly and evenly in a prepared cake pan. Bake each layer for 6–8 minutes, until just set and lightly golden — the layers are so thin that they bake very quickly. Let cool in the pans for 2 minutes, then turn out onto wire racks to cool completely.

Making the Brachetto Chocolate Fudge Frosting: In a saucepan, combine the cocoa powder, sugar, butter, evaporated milk, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking constantly. Reduce heat and simmer for 3–4 minutes, until the mixture thickens to a fudge-like consistency. Remove from heat and stir in the Brachetto and vanilla. Let cool until spreadable but still warm — the frosting will set as it cools, so work efficiently.

Assembling: Place the first cake layer on a serving plate and spread a thin, even layer of warm frosting over it. Top with the next layer and repeat, spreading frosting between each layer. Frost the top and sides of the cake with the remaining frosting. Work while the frosting is still warm and spreadable — if it sets too firmly, gently reheat.

Serving: Let the cake sit for at least 1 hour before slicing, so the frosting sets completely. Slice with a hot, clean knife — dip in hot water and wipe between cuts. Serve at room temperature.

The Mimosa Pairing Logic: Since the frosting contains Brachetto, pair with a strawberry mimosa — strawberry purée and Prosecco. The strawberry echoes the Brachetto and complements the chocolate. A raspberry rose champagne mimosa is also excellent — the raspberry and rose notes mirror the Brachetto. Avoid dry or bitter mimosas — Smith Island cake is sweet and intensely chocolatey, and you need a mimosa with fruit and a touch of sweetness to complement it.

Reference Links: - Maryland State Dessert - Smith Island Cake (2008 legislation): Maryland State Archives - The History of the Smith Island Cake (Maryland, Chesapeake Bay): Smith Island Cake - Smith Island cake on Wikipedia (state dessert, eight to ten layers): Wikipedia - Brachetto d'Acqui wine guide: Wine Folly

Make-Ahead: The cake layers can be baked up to 2 days ahead and stored, well-wrapped, at room temperature or frozen for up to 1 month (stack with parchment between layers). The frosting can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated — gently reheat until spreadable. The assembled cake can be stored at room temperature for up to 3 days — it actually improves after a day as the frosting soaks into the layers. Do not refrigerate — refrigeration dries out the cake.

Pro Tips: Use a kitchen scale to divide the batter evenly — this ensures that all layers are the same thickness, which is essential for the cake's appearance and structure. Bake the layers individually — each thin layer needs only 6–8 minutes, and trying to bake thicker layers and split them will not produce the same result. Work quickly with the frosting — the cooked fudge frosting sets as it cools, and if it becomes too firm, it will tear the delicate layers when you try to spread it. Gently reheat if needed. The frosting between the layers should be thin — the effect comes from the accumulation of many thin layers, not from thick frosting. Let the assembled cake sit before slicing — the frosting needs time to set, and the layers need time to absorb some of the moisture from the frosting. Use a serrated knife for clean slices — the many layers can shift if you press down with a flat knife.