Chicken Divan: The Divan Parisien Restaurant's 1930s New York Casserole

In the 1930s, at the Divan Parisien Restaurant inside the Chatham Hotel in New York City, a casserole of chicken and broccoli blanketed in a creamy Mornay sauce was created and served as the restaurant's signature dish. It was named Chicken Divan, after the restaurant itself, and it quickly spread from the Chatham Hotel into American home kitchens, where it became one of the most popular dinner party dishes of the mid-20th century.

Despite the French name, Chicken Divan is an American creation. It is a casserole in the classic American sense: layers of cooked chicken and broccoli, bound together with a velvety cheese sauce, topped with buttered breadcrumbs, and baked until golden and bubbling. The original recipe called for a Mornay sauce, which is a béchamel enriched with grated Gruyère and Parmesan, and the dish was finished under the broiler for a crackling golden top.

About the Ingredients: The chicken should be poached or roasted and cut into bite-sized pieces. The broccoli is blanched until bright green and just tender, arranged in the bottom of the dish. The Mornay sauce is a béchamel made with butter, flour, and milk, enriched with Gruyère and a little Parmesan. The topping is buttered breadcrumbs or panko, which provides the textural contrast between the creamy interior and the crisp top.

Ingredients (serves 6): - 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 lb total) - 1 large head of broccoli, cut into florets - 3 tablespoons unsalted butter - 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour - 2 cups whole milk, warmed - ½ cup Gruyère cheese, grated - ¼ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated - ½ cup panko breadcrumbs - 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted - 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice - ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard - Salt, white pepper, and freshly grated nutmeg - ¼ cup dry white wine (optional)

Instructions: Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 9×13-inch baking dish.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch the broccoli florets for 3 minutes until bright green and just tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and arrange in the bottom of the baking dish. In the same water, poach the chicken breasts for 12 to 15 minutes until cooked through. Remove, let cool slightly, and cut into bite-sized pieces. Arrange the chicken over the broccoli.

To make the Mornay sauce, melt the 3 tablespoons of butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. If using, whisk in the white wine and cook for 30 seconds. Gradually whisk in the warm milk, stirring to prevent lumps. Cook, whisking constantly, until the sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the Gruyère, Parmesan, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, salt, white pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg.

Pour the sauce evenly over the chicken and broccoli. In a small bowl, combine the panko breadcrumbs with the melted butter. Sprinkle over the top of the casserole.

Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until the sauce is bubbling and the breadcrumbs are golden brown. Let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

The Mimosa Pairing Logic: The rich cheese sauce and tender chicken call for a mimosa with bright citrus to cut through the cream. The Classic Champagne Mimosa provides the clean acidity the dish needs. For a more aromatic pairing, the Lavender Elderflower Mimosa adds a floral note that complements the Gruyère and nutmeg in the sauce.

Reference Links: - Chicken Divan – Wikipedia - History of Chicken Divan – Quaint Cooking

Make-Ahead: The entire casserole can be assembled up to a day ahead and refrigerated, unbaked. Add 10 minutes to the baking time if baking from cold. The Mornay sauce can also be made ahead and refrigerated, then gently reheated before assembling. Do not add the breadcrumb topping until just before baking, or it will become soggy.

Pro Tips: The broccoli must be blanched before it goes into the casserole. Raw broccoli will not cook through in the oven and will be tough and fibrous. The Mornay sauce should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon before you pour it over the chicken. If it is too thin, cook it for a few more minutes. The nutmeg is not optional in a proper Mornay. It is a small amount, but it is what gives the sauce its characteristic warmth and depth.