Black Forest Cake al Brachetto

In 1915, the pastry chef Josef Keller is said to have made the first Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte at the Café Ahrend in Bad Godesberg, near Bonn, a single-tiered cake of chocolate sponge, cherries, cream, and a shot of Kirschwasser, the cherry brandy distilled in the Black Forest. The claim is disputed. A 1927 recipe is held in an archive at Radolfzell, the confectioner Erwin Hildenbrand is said to have developed the cake in 1930 at the Waldbühne restaurant in Stuttgart, and the earliest published recipe appeared in 1934. The name comes from Kirschwasser rather than the forest itself; by German law, a cake may be called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte only if it contains Kirschwasser, and the brandy may carry the name Schwarzwälder Kirsch only if it is distilled east of the Bundesstraße 3, in the Black Forest, from Black Forest cherries. Without the kirsch, it is only a chocolate cherry cake.

A proper Black Forest cake has three or more layers of chocolate sponge, each brushed generously with Kirschwasser, filled with whipped cream and Morello cherries, covered in whipped cream, and decorated with chocolate shavings and fresh or cocktail cherries. The combination of dark chocolate, tart cherries, cherry brandy, and lightly sweetened cream is the whole of it.

Our Mimosavated version keeps the Kirschwasser, for it would not be a Black Forest cake without it, and infuses the whipped cream with Brachetto d'Acqui, the sweet, lightly sparkling red wine of Piedmont whose strawberry and rose aromas have a natural affinity for both chocolate and cherries, adding a soft, fruity note alongside the sharper kirsch.

Ingredients (serves 12):

The Chocolate Sponge: - 7 oz all-purpose flour - 1 ¾ oz unsweetened cocoa powder - 2 teaspoons baking powder - 1 teaspoon baking soda - ½ teaspoon salt - 7 oz granulated sugar - 3 ½ oz vegetable oil - 2 large eggs, room temperature - 1 teaspoon vanilla extract - ¾ cup buttermilk - ½ cup hot water or hot coffee

The Cherry Filling: - 14 ⅛ oz Morello cherries (jarred or canned, drained — reserve ½ cup of the syrup) - 1 ¾ oz granulated sugar - ⅔ oz cornstarch - 2 tbsp Kirschwasser (cherry brandy) - 1 tablespoon lemon juice

The Brachetto Whipped Cream: - 2 ½ cups heavy cream, cold - 2 ⅞ oz powdered sugar - 3 ⅓ tbsp Brachetto d'Acqui - 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For Soaking and Decorating: - ¼ cup Kirschwasser (for brushing the sponge layers) - 7 oz dark chocolate (for shavings) - 12 fresh or cocktail cherries (for decoration)

Making the Chocolate Sponge: Preheat the oven to 347°F (350°F). Butter and flour three 7 ⅞ in (8-inch) round cake pans, and line the bottoms with parchment paper.

In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, oil, eggs, and vanilla until smooth. Add the dry ingredients in three additions, alternating with the buttermilk in two additions, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients. Stir in the hot water (or coffee) — the batter will be thin.

Divide the batter evenly among the three prepared pans. Bake for 25–30 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pans for 10 minutes, then turn out onto wire racks to cool completely.

Making the Cherry Filling: In a saucepan, combine the drained cherries (reserving about 14 ⅛ oz for the cake), the reserved cherry syrup, sugar, cornstarch, Kirschwasser, and lemon juice. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and becomes glossy — about 5 minutes. Let cool completely.

Making the Brachetto Whipped Cream: In a cold bowl, whip the heavy cream to soft peaks. Add the powdered sugar, Brachetto, and vanilla, and whip to medium-stiff peaks — don't overwhip or it will turn grainy. Reserve about a third of the whipped cream for the outside of the cake.

Assembling: If the cake layers have domed, use a serrated knife to level them. Place the first layer on a cake stand and brush generously with Kirschwasser. Spread half of the cherry filling over the sponge, leaving a ¾ in border around the edge. Spread a layer of Brachetto whipped cream over the cherries.

Place the second layer on top, brush with Kirschwasser, and repeat with the remaining cherry filling and another layer of whipped cream. Place the third layer on top, brush with Kirschwasser, and frost the entire cake with the reserved whipped cream.

Decorating: Cover the sides and top of the cake with chocolate shavings — use a vegetable peeler to shave the dark chocolate, and press the shavings gently onto the sides. Pipe 12 rosettes of whipped cream around the top edge, and place a fresh or cocktail cherry on each rosette.

Serving: Slice with a hot, clean knife — dip in hot water and wipe between cuts for pristine slices. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled.

The Mimosa Pairing Logic: Since the whipped cream contains Brachetto, pair with a cherry or berry-forward mimosa. A raspberry rose champagne mimosa is ideal — the raspberry and rose notes echo the Brachetto and complement the cherries and chocolate. A strawberry mimosa is also excellent — strawberry and chocolate is a classic pairing. Avoid heavy or dry mimosas — Black Forest cake is rich and complex, and you need something with fruit and a touch of sweetness to complement it.

Reference Links: - Black Forest gateau on Wikipedia (Kirschwasser, German law): Wikipedia - The Surprising History of Black Forest Cake (Black Forest region, Kirschwasser): Jack and Beyond - Black Forest Cake History and Recipe (16th century, Baden-Württemberg): What's Cooking America - The history of Black Forest Cake (early 20th century): La Patisserie du Monde - Brachetto d'Acqui wine guide: Wine Folly

Make-Ahead: The cake layers can be baked up to 2 days ahead and stored, well-wrapped, at room temperature or frozen for up to 1 month. The cherry filling can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated. The assembled cake can be refrigerated for up to 2 days — the flavors actually improve after a day as the Kirschwasser and Brachetto soak into the sponge. The chocolate shavings can be made a day ahead and stored in an airtight container. Bring to room temperature before serving for the best flavor.

Pro Tips: Use Kirschwasser — it's legally required for the cake to be called Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte in Germany, and its cherry-bry flavor is essential. Don't substitute regular cherry liqueur or omit it. Use Morello or sour cherries — sweet cherries will make the cake too sweet and one-dimensional. The buttermilk and hot water (or coffee) in the sponge are essential — the buttermilk provides acid that reacts with the baking soda, and the hot liquid blooms the cocoa powder, deepening its flavor. Don't skip the Kirschwasser brushing — this is what makes a Black Forest cake a Black Forest cake, not just a chocolate cherry cake. Whip the cream to medium-stiff peaks — too soft and it won't hold its shape, too stiff and it will be grainy and difficult to spread. Don't overfill with cherries — the cake needs to hold together when sliced, and too much filling will make it slide. Let the cake rest before serving — the Kirschwasser and Brachetto need time to soak into the sponge, and the flavors meld and deepen after a few hours or overnight. Use a hot knife for clean slices — the whipped cream will smear if you cut with a cold or dirty knife.