Baci di Dama al Brachetto

Baci di Dama — "Lady's Kisses" — are the most elegant cookies in the Italian repertoire. Two round, dome-shaped hazelnut shortbread cookies, joined together by a thin layer of dark chocolate, like two lips meeting in a kiss. They're crisp, buttery, intensely nutty, and the thin seam of chocolate that holds them together adds a bittersweet contrast. They're small enough to eat in two bites, which is exactly why you'll eat twelve of them.

Baci di Dama originate from the town of Tortona in Piedmont, in the province of Alessandria — an area famous for its hazelnuts, which have DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) status. The cookies were created in the second half of the 19th century, with some sources dating them to 1852. According to legend, they were created at the behest of Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a united Italy, who asked the chefs of the House of Savoy to create a new, distinctive sweet. Others attribute them to the pastry shops of Tortona itself, which were famous for their hazelnut confections. Either way, they quickly became one of the most popular cookies in Piedmont and are now found in pasticcerie throughout Italy.

The name "Baci di Dama" — Lady's Kisses — is a reflection of their refined, delicate shape. The cookies are formed by piping small rounds of dough that spread slightly during baking, creating a flat-bottomed dome. When two are sandwiched together with chocolate, the seam looks like two lips pursing for a kiss. The traditional filling is dark chocolate, though modern variations use gianduja (chocolate-hazelnut spread) or white chocolate.

Our Mimosavated version fills the Baci di Dama with a Brachetto-infused dark chocolate ganache. Brachetto d'Acqui — the sweet, lightly sparkling red wine from Piedmont — has aromas of strawberry and rose that complement the hazelnuts perfectly. The Brachetto adds a subtle berry-wine note to the chocolate filling, making these already-sophisticated cookies even more complex.

Ingredients (makes about 30 sandwich cookies):

The Hazelnut Shortbread: - 7 oz hazelnuts (skin-on), toasted and skinned - 7 oz tipo 00 flour - 6 ⅓ oz unsalted butter, softened - 5 ¼ oz powdered sugar - 2 large egg yolks - 1 teaspoon vanilla extract - A pinch of salt

The Brachetto Chocolate Filling: - 3 ½ oz dark chocolate (70% cocoa), chopped - 3 ⅓ tbsp heavy cream - 2 tbsp Brachetto d'Acqui - 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Toasting and Skinning the Hazelnuts: Preheat the oven to 356°F (350°F). Spread the hazelnuts on a baking sheet and toast for 10–12 minutes, until the skins crack and the nuts are fragrant. While still warm, wrap them in a clean kitchen towel and rub vigorously to remove the skins — don't worry if some skins remain; they'll add flavor. Let cool completely, then grind in a food processor until fine but not oily — you want a meal, not hazelnut butter.

Making the Dough: In a bowl, combine the ground hazelnuts, flour, powdered sugar, and salt. In a stand mixer, cream the butter until smooth and pale. Add the egg yolks one at a time, then the vanilla. Gradually add the dry ingredients and mix until the dough just comes together — do not overmix or the cookies will be tough. The dough will be soft and slightly sticky.

Form the dough into a disc, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, until firm enough to handle.

Shaping and Baking: Preheat the oven to 338°F (340°F). Line baking sheets with parchment paper. Pinch off small pieces of dough (about ¼ oz each — use a teaspoon measure for consistency) and roll them into balls. Place on the baking sheets about 1 ⅛ in apart — they will spread slightly. The balls should be small; Baci di Dama are delicate cookies, not hockey pucks.

Bake for 12–14 minutes, until the bottoms are golden and the tops are just set. The cookies should be pale on top — if they brown too much, they'll be dry. Let cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

Making the Brachetto Chocolate Filling: Heat the cream in a small saucepan until just below boiling. Place the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl and pour the hot cream over it. Let sit for 1 minute, then stir until smooth. Stir in the Brachetto and butter until glossy. Let cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally, until it thickens to a spreadable consistency — about 30 minutes.

Assembling the Baci di Dama: Match the cookies in pairs of similar size. Spoon or pipe a small amount of Brachetto chocolate onto the flat bottom of one cookie, then gently press its partner on top, flat side down. The chocolate should come just to the edges. Let set for about 1 hour at room temperature, or 30 minutes in the refrigerator.

The Mimosa Pairing Logic: Since the chocolate filling contains Brachetto, pair with a raspberry rose champagne mimosa — the raspberry and rose notes echo the Brachetto and the hazelnuts beautifully. A strawberry mimosa is also excellent, as strawberry and hazelnut is a delightful combination. Avoid bitter or dry mimosas — Baci di Dama are delicate, nutty cookies, and you need a mimosa with a touch of sweetness and fruit to complement them.

Reference Links: - Baci di Dama on Wikipedia (Tortona, Piedmont origins): Wikipedia - Baci di Dama history and facts: Venchi - Traditional Piedmontese Baci di Dama recipe: Giallo Zafferano - Baci di Dama from Tortona: TasteAtlas - Brachetto d'Acqui wine guide: Wine Folly

Make-Ahead: The dough can be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen for up to 1 month. The baked cookies can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week before filling. The assembled Baci di Dama keep for up to 2 weeks in an airtight container — they actually improve after a day as the flavors meld. The Brachetto chocolate filling can be made a day ahead and gently rewarmed to spreading consistency.

Pro Tips: Toast and skin the hazelnuts properly — the skins are bitter and will make the cookies taste harsh. Don't over-grind the hazelnuts in the food processor — if you go too far, they'll release their oil and turn into hazelnut butter, which will make the dough greasy. Pulse in short bursts. Keep the cookies small — Baci di Dama are delicate, one-or-two-bite cookies; if they're too large, they lose their refinement. Don't overbake — the cookies should be pale and barely golden; overbaked Baci di Dama are dry and crumbly. Match cookies of similar size when assembling — mismatched pairs look sloppy and won't hold together properly.