St. Barths: The Art of Caribbean Luxury on France's Most Exclusive Island

St. Barthélemy — St. Barths to its regulars — occupies a special position in the hierarchy of Caribbean islands. At just 21 square kilometres, it is tiny. It has no casino, no cruise ship port, no all-inclusive resort, and no Starbucks. What it has is 22 beaches of exceptional beauty, a French Overseas Collectivity status that keeps it duty-free (and the rosé cheap by luxury resort standards), a concentration of world-class restaurants that would not embarrass the eighth arrondissement of Paris, and a client base of billionaires, film stars, and serious travellers who return year after year with the devotion of pilgrims.

The island was colonised by Sweden in 1784 — sold back to France in 1878 — and the Swedish influence persists in the name of the capital, Gustavia, and in the island's coat of arms. The French influence pervades everything else: the language, the cuisine, the fashion boutiques of Gustavia's harbour front, and the general attitude that leisure is a serious business deserving of proper attention.

Where to Stay: The Island's Great Addresses

Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France (chevalblanc.com/en/maison/isle-de-france) on Baie des Flamands is the island's finest hotel — a collection of 40 cottages, bungalows, and villas in LVMH's white-glove style, with a private beach, a spa using La Prairie products, three restaurants (including a Japanese sushi counter), and service standards that set the benchmark for the island. Suites from $2,500/night. The hotel's beach bar serves the best rum punch on the island.

Eden Rock (edenrockhotel.com) above St-Jean bay is the most visually distinctive property on St. Barths — a fantasy villa built into and around a dramatic volcanic rock, with each of its 37 rooms individually decorated by owner David and Jane Matthews with an eclectic collection of art, furniture, and textiles. It is impossible to replicate and entirely individual. Suites from $1,800/night.

Le Barthelemy Hotel & Spa (lebarthelemyhotel.com) on the Grand Cul de Sac lagoon is the newest luxury address — opened 2016, adults-only, with a spa, an excellent French-Caribbean restaurant, and direct access to the calm water of the lagoon, which is ideal for kite-surfing and paddleboarding. Suites from $1,200/night.

The Villa Rental Market

A significant portion of sophisticated St. Barths visitors rent private villas — the island has over 200 available at any time, ranging from comfortable hillside retreats to spectacular cliff-top compounds with full staff. WIMCO (wimco.com/st-barths-villas) and Sibarth (sibarth.com) are the two most established villa rental agencies on the island, with combined portfolios covering virtually every property of quality. Peak-week villas (Christmas and New Year's) rent for $50,000–$200,000 per week.

The Beaches

St. Barths' 22 beaches are its primary attraction and are remarkably varied in character. Gouverneur Bay (accessible only by road or sea) is the island's most beautiful — a deep crescent of white sand with no commercial development, a steep hillside of cactus behind, and turquoise water that is consistently calm. Saline, a 10-minute walk from a car park, is a similar style — wide, natural, clothing-optional at the far end. Shell Beach in Gustavia is the most social — directly behind the yacht harbour, lined with beach clubs and bars, with the superyacht parade as a backdrop.

For active water sports, Grand Cul de Sac lagoon (St. Barth Kiteboarding, stbarthkiteboarding.com) has consistent trade winds and shallow water — ideal for beginner and intermediate kite-surfing. Wind Wave Power at Lorient offers certified instruction.

Gustavia and the Dining Scene

Gustavia's harbour — ringed by pastel-painted Creole buildings and French luxury boutiques (Hermès, Cartier, Bulgari, Ralph Lauren all have stores) — is anchored on one side by Le Select (leselectstbarth.com), an open-air café established in 1949 and the island's social heartbeat, and on the other by the Fort Oscar and the gendarmerie. The yacht harbour hosts some of the world's most spectacular private boats, particularly in December and January.

For dining, Le Ti St Barth (letistbarth.com) offers the island's most festive and theatrical dining experience — a nightly cabaret restaurant on the heights above Pointe Milou where every table becomes a dance floor after 11pm and the kitchen produces excellent French-Caribbean cuisine all evening. L'Isola (isolaStBarth.com) in Gustavia is the fine dining benchmark — contemporary Italian with excellent pasta and a wine list of notable depth. For the best burgers and beach vibe, Nikki Beach (nikkibeach.com/stbarths) at St-Jean remains the island's most famous beach club.

Getting There

St. Jean Gustaf III Airport (SBH) has one of the most dramatically short runways in aviation — 650 metres — and is served by small inter-island aircraft only. The main connection points are Sint Maarten (SXM) — a 15-minute hop by Winair or St Barth Commuter, or a 45-minute ferry by Voyager (voy12.com) — and San Juan, Puerto Rico (SJU). Private jets can land at SBH with appropriate clearance. The ferry crossing from Sint Maarten to Gustavia is the most popular and affordable option.