Paris Fashion Week: A Visitor's Guide to the Real Show

Paris Fashion Week — held twice annually in late January/February and late September/October — is the apex of the global fashion calendar. For those without show invitations, it offers something arguably more interesting: the entire city of Paris dressed to perform, a concentration of creative energy and sartorial ambition unlike anything achievable at any other time or place.

The best shows are in the Le Marais, Saint-Germain, and around the Palais Royal. Position yourself outside the major venues — the Louvre's Cour Carrée, the Pont de la Concorde, the Palais-Royal gardens — and the street style photography practically presents itself. Tommy Ton (instagram.com/tommyton) and Phil Oh (instagram.com/philoh) are the master documentarians of this scene.

**Where to stay during Fashion Week**: Hôtel Costes (hotelcostes.com) remains the industry's power-centre hotel — its restaurant and bar are unmissable for industry-watching. For something quieter but impeccably located, Le Relais Christine (relaischristine.com) in Saint-Germain offers beautiful rooms within walking distance of most major show venues.

**The shopping itinerary**: Merci (merci-merci.com) for thoughtful Parisian concept-store curation. Colette's spiritual successor, Centre Commercial (centre-commercial.co.uk), for emerging designers. Le Bon Marché (lebonmarche.com) for the most sophisticated department store experience in the world.

**Dining**: Le Grand Véfour (legrandvefour.com) at the Palais-Royal for special occasion dining; Frenchie (frenchie-restaurant.com) in Montorgueil for the creative bistro experience that defines contemporary Paris.

**The Fashion Week Aperitif**: A kir royale — Champagne with a splash of crème de cassis — is the Parisian fashion crowd's aperitif of choice. A Mimosavated variation substituting blood orange juice for cassis is a sophisticated and photogenic alternative.