Kyoto: Cherry Blossoms, Ryokan Culture & Japan's Most Refined City

Kyoto served as Japan's imperial capital for over a millennium — from 794 to 1868 — and when the capital moved to Tokyo, Kyoto was left with everything that Tokyo never had: 17 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, 400 Shinto shrines, 1,600 Buddhist temples, and a cultural continuity that makes it the most concentrated repository of traditional Japanese civilization on earth.

It is also one of the most beautiful cities in the world, at any season — but never more so than during sakura (cherry blossom) season, when the city's thousands of cherry trees flower simultaneously for approximately 10 days in late March and early April, transforming parks, riverbanks, and temple gardens into clouds of pale pink.

Where to Stay: The Ryokan Tradition

A ryokan — a traditional Japanese inn — is one of the world's most refined hospitality experiences. Guests sleep on futon mattresses on tatami floors, dress in yukata robes, and dine on multi-course kaiseki meals served privately in their rooms by kimono-clad staff. The etiquette is precise, the service is anticipatory, and the overall experience is unlike any hotel in the Western sense.

Amanjiwo's sister property Aman Kyoto (amanresorts.com/aman-kyoto) sits at the northern edge of the Kitayama forest, adjacent to two ancient shrines. The 26 pavilions are built in a contemporary interpretation of traditional sukiya-zukuri architecture, with sliding shoji screens, outdoor soaking tubs overlooking moss gardens, and fireplaces for the winter months. The forest walk — a private winding path through maple and cedar to a small hidden tea house — is one of the most peaceful hotel experiences available anywhere in Asia. Rooms from $2,500/night.

Tawaraya Ryokan (www.tawaraya-kyoto.com) in central Kyoto is Japan's most celebrated traditional inn, operating continuously since 1709. Its 18 rooms have hosted Steve Jobs, the Rockefellers, Alfred Hitchcock, and the Emperor of Japan. Reservations require a Japanese-speaking contact or introduction; the experience, once secured, is transformative. Rooms from $1,800/night including kaiseki dinner and breakfast.

The Ritz-Carlton Kyoto (ritzcarlton.com/kyoto) on the Kamogawa riverbank offers Western luxury at a level that accommodates those not yet ready to commit fully to the ryokan experience while still providing access to traditional onsen bathing and in-room kaiseki dining. Rooms from $900/night.

Kaiseki: Japan's Most Refined Cuisine

Kaiseki is the Japanese equivalent of the French tasting menu — a multi-course progression of small, exquisitely prepared dishes that follows the seasons with absolute precision. A kaiseki meal in Kyoto in March will feature bamboo shoots, sansai (mountain vegetables), and cherry blossom garnishes; in autumn, matsutake mushrooms, persimmon, and chrysanthemum.

Kichisen (kichisen.co.jp) in Kitayama has held three Michelin stars since the guide first published Japan ratings and is considered by many food scholars to be the finest kaiseki restaurant in the world. Reservations require several months' advance booking and a Japanese-speaking intermediary. A dinner costs approximately $600 per person before drinks.

The Gion District at Dusk

Gion — Kyoto's historic geisha district — is most beautiful at dusk on a weeknight, when the stone-paved Hanamikoji Street is lit by paper lanterns and the machiya (traditional townhouse) facades are closed to the public. Spotting an actual maiko (apprentice geisha) or geiko (full geisha) on the street as she travels between engagements is one of Kyoto's authentic pleasures — always observe from a respectful distance.

Getting There

Fly into Osaka Kansai International Airport (KIX) or Osaka Itami (ITM). Kyoto is 75 minutes by Haruka Express from Kansai Airport, or 15 minutes by Shinkansen from Shin-Osaka Station.