Dubrovnik: Old City Walls, Adriatic Glamour & Croatia's Jewel Coast

Dubrovnik is the most visually dramatic medieval city in Europe — a perfectly preserved walled city of limestone and terracotta, built on a sea cliff above the Adriatic, surrounded on three sides by the clearest water in the Mediterranean. Its Old City walls, originally constructed in the 13th century and maintained in immaculate condition for 700 years, can be walked in their entirety in roughly 2 hours — offering a continuously shifting panorama of orange rooftops, the Adriatic, and the surrounding mountains.

The city gained a second wave of international fame as the filming location for King's Landing in Game of Thrones — the Pile Gate, the Jesuit Staircase (the Red Keep steps), and the Fort Lovrijenac (the Red Keep itself) are all recognizable to viewers worldwide. This has brought enormous tourism pressure in high summer, making shoulder season visits (May, June, September, October) substantially more rewarding.

Where to Stay: Clifftop and Old City Views

Villa Dubrovnik (villa-dubrovnik.hr) is the most celebrated hotel in Dubrovnik — a glass-and-limestone boutique hotel built into the cliff face directly above the Old City, accessible by private boat from the city pier or via a funicular. The 56 rooms have direct sea views; the infinity pool appears to float above the Adriatic; and the terrace restaurant, Vapore, serves the finest seafood in the city. Rooms from $800/night. villa-dubrovnik.hr.

Adriatica Boutique Hotel (adriatica.hr) inside the Old City walls — one of the very few hotels within the walls — offers direct access to the limestone maze of Stradun at midnight, when the day-trippers have gone and the city belongs again to those who have stayed. Rooms from $400/night.

Hotel Bellevue (adriaticluxuryhotels.com/hotels/hotel-bellevue) above Miramare Bay, west of the Old City, offers the finest outdoor dining position in Dubrovnik — the terrace hangs above the sea, and the sunset view of the Old City silhouette on the horizon is extraordinary. Rooms from $600/night.

The City Wall Walk: A Dawn Ritual

Walking the city walls opens at 8am. Arriving at opening — before the cruise ship passengers and the summer heat — with a small container of fresh pastries and two coffees from Pržionica Kavana on the Stradun is one of the great simple pleasures available to travelers in Europe. The 2-kilometer circuit takes 90 minutes at a leisurely pace and offers unobstructed views in every direction at the hour of best light.

The Elafiti Islands: A Day by Boat

Renting a private motorboat from Dubrovnik's Old Harbor for a day's exploration of the Elafiti Islands — the uninhabited chain stretching northwest from the city — is the Adriatic experience that elevates a Dubrovnik visit from very good to unforgettable. The islands of Šipan, Lopud, and Koločep have no cars; their villages are medieval; their coves are extraordinary. Bring provisions from the Gundulić Square market — local prosciutto, Paški sir (sheep's cheese from the island of Pag), crusty bread, olives, and a bottle of Pošip (the local white wine from the island of Korčula).

Hvar: The Dalmatian Coast's Glamour Island

From Dubrovnik, a 3-hour catamaran connects to Hvar — the Adriatic's most glamorous island, lavender-scented, medieval-walled, and home to the best rosé wine in Croatia. Carpe Diem Beach Club (carpediemhvar.com) on the island of Stipanska, accessible only by water taxi, hosts the finest beach party on the Croatian coast through July and August.

Getting There

Dubrovnik Airport (DBV) receives direct flights from London (British Airways, easyJet), Frankfurt, Amsterdam, and Dublin. The 30-minute transfer from the airport to the city is by bus along the Adriatic Highway, with views of the city approach that prepare you perfectly for arrival.