The Bespoke Suit: Savile Row and the Art of English Tailoring

Savile Row — the short street in Mayfair, London, running between Conduit Street and Vigo Street — is the global capital of bespoke tailoring. For over two centuries, the craftsmen of 'the Row' have dressed kings, prime ministers, Hollywood icons, and the quietly powerful, establishing a standard of cut, construction, and cloth that remains the benchmark of men's dress.

The Founding

The history of Savile Row as a tailoring destination begins with Henry Poole & Co., founded in 1806 by James Poole and continued by his son Henry. In 1846, Henry Poole opened an entrance to his tailoring premises at No. 32 Savile Row from his showroom on Old Burlington Street, earning him the title 'Founder of Savile Row.' Henry Poole & Co. remains on the Row to this day, credited not only with founding the street's tailoring tradition but also with the creation of the dinner jacket (the tuxedo) in the 1860s for the Prince of Wales, the future King Edward VII.

The term 'bespoke' itself originates from Savile Row. When a client selected a length of cloth, it was said to have been 'spoken for' — hence 'be-spoken.' A true bespoke suit is one cut from a unique pattern made for the individual client, constructed entirely by hand, and fitted over multiple appointments. The process typically involves 80 to 100 hours of hand work and requires three fittings: the forward fitting, the half-finished fitting, and the final fitting.

The Great Houses

The Savile Row Bespoke Association, founded in 2004 to protect and promote the craft, represents the leading houses on the Row. Each has its own distinctive house style:

**Henry Poole & Co.** (No. 15) — the oldest and most historically significant house on the Row, founded 1806. Poole's is credited with the invention of the dinner jacket and has dressed every British monarch since Queen Victoria, as well as Emperor Napoleon III, Winston Churchill, and Charles Dickens.

**Anderson & Sheppard** (founded 1906) — renowned for its soft, natural-shouldered cut, a departure from the more structured military tailoring of the Row. Anderson & Sheppard's lighter, more fluid style has been worn by Fred Astaire, Clark Gable, and, in more recent decades, by the designer Tom Ford, who has spoken extensively about his admiration for the house.

**Huntsman** (founded 1849) — known for its distinctive single-button house cut and equestrian heritage. Huntsman is one of the most expensive houses on the Row and was prominently featured in the 2015 documentary 'Kingsman: The Secret Service,' which was filmed in the Huntsman shop.

**Gieves & Hawkes** (No. 1 Savile Row) — the result of the 1974 merger of two historic military tailors, Gieves (founded 1785) and Hawkes (founded 1771). The house holds royal warrants and is known for its naval and military tailoring heritage.

**Hardy Amies** (founded 1946) — founded by Sir Edwin Hardy Amies, dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II. Hardy Amies was known for his modern, clean approach to tailoring and was the first Savile Row tailor to mount a ready-to-wear catwalk show.

The Bespoke Process

A true Savile Row bespoke suit begins with the selection of cloth — typically from merchants such as Holland & Sherry, Dormeuil, or Loro Piana. The cutter then creates a unique paper pattern for the client, from which the cloth is cut. The suit is constructed with a hand-padded canvas (not the glued fusing used in ready-to-wear), which allows the jacket to mould to the body over time and last for decades. The process takes approximately 8 to 12 weeks from first fitting to delivery.

The Savile Row Bespoke Association defines a genuine bespoke garment as one that is cut from a personal pattern, made by hand, and fitted on the individual client. The Association's member houses maintain this standard, with each suit representing over 80 hours of hand labour.

Reference Links:

- Savile Row Bespoke Association: savilerowbespoke.com

- Henry Poole & Co.: henrypoole.com

- Anderson & Sheppard: anderson-sheppard.co.uk

- Huntsman: huntsmansavilerow.com

- Gieves & Hawkes: gievesandhawkes.com

- Hardy Amies: hardyamies.com

- Museum of London — Savile Row: londonmuseum.org.uk

- Wikipedia — Savile Row tailoring: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Savile_Row_tailoring