Aperitivo Hour: The Italian Art of the Pre-Dinner Ritual

Italy has given the world extraordinary things — Renaissance art, perfect pasta, Ferrari — but perhaps its most civilised contribution is the aperitivo. That sacred hour (or two) between the workday and dinner, devoted entirely to the pleasure of light drinking and easy company.

The aperitivo tradition is believed to have originated in Turin in the late 18th century, when Antonio Benedetto Carpano created the first commercial vermouth. By the 20th century, Campari, Aperol, and Prosecco had joined the canon, and today the ritual is observed from Milan's Navigli canal district to Venice's bacaro bars with near-religious devotion.

To recreate it at home, start with the drinks: a Campari spritz (3 parts Prosecco, 2 parts Campari, 1 splash soda) or an Aperol spritz are the classics. A Mimosavated twist — Prosecco with fresh blood orange, a splash of Aperol, and a rosemary sprig — bridges the mimosa and aperitivo worlds beautifully.

The food should be generous but restrained: mixed olives, paper-thin prosciutto, grana padano with honey, bruschetta with good tomato. Eataly (eataly.com) stocks authentic Italian provisions if you're not near a specialist deli.

The atmosphere matters as much as the food. Move furniture to create space for standing and mingling. Dimmer switches on. Nino Rota or contemporary Italian jazz on the speakers. Guests should feel slightly untethered from their day — that is the aperitivo's whole purpose.

For reference, Emiko Davies' book 'Acquacotta' (emikodavies.com) is a beautiful guide to the rituals of Italian food and drink culture.