Turkish Iskender Kebab: The 1867 Bursa Invention of Iskender Efendi

In 1867, in the Kayhan Bazaar of Bursa, a city in northwestern Turkey at the foot of Mount Uludağ, a chef named İskender Efendi opened a small shop and invented a kebab that would become one of the most popular dishes in Turkey. İskender's innovation was to roast lamb on a vertical spit, shave it thin, lay it over pieces of pita bread, and drown the whole plate in a rich tomato sauce, a dollop of yogurt, and a pour of sizzling melted butter. The dish took his name, Iskender kebab, and his descendants, the İskenderoğlu family, have kept the tradition alive in the same shop for more than 150 years. The family still controls the trademark on the name, and the dish is served in thousands of restaurants across Turkey and the world, though the original shop in Bursa remains the pilgrimage site (Wikipedia — İskender Kebap; Kebapçı İskender — Our History).

The genius of İskender's dish is in the layers. The lamb, seasoned with cumin, oregano, and garlic, is roasted on a vertical spit that turns slowly, the outer layer crisping as the fat renders and bastes the meat from within. The shaved lamb is laid over cubes of pita bread that have been toasted in butter, so they absorb the meat juices and the tomato sauce without turning to mush. The tomato sauce, made from reduced tomatoes, butter, and paprika, is poured hot over the meat. A generous spoonful of thick Turkish yogurt, cool and tangy, sits on the side. And the final touch, the flourish that makes the dish Iskender's, is a pour of hot melted butter, sizzling as it hits the tomato sauce and the meat, sent to the table in a small copper pot so the guest can pour it at the moment of serving.

Ingredients (serves 6): - 2 lb ground lamb (or thinly sliced lamb leg) - 1 teaspoon ground cumin - 1 teaspoon dried oregano - ½ teaspoon garlic powder - 1 teaspoon salt - ½ teaspoon black pepper - 3 pita breads, cut into cubes - 3 tablespoons butter - 2 cups crushed tomatoes - 1 tablespoon tomato paste - 1 teaspoon paprika - 1 pinch of cayenne - 2 cups plain Turkish or Greek yogurt - 1 clove garlic, minced (for the yogurt) - 4 tablespoons butter (for the final pour) - 1 teaspoon paprika (for the butter) - Grilled tomato and green pepper, for garnish

Instructions: In a bowl, combine the ground lamb with the cumin, oregano, garlic powder, salt, and pepper. Mix well and form into a large loaf. If using sliced lamb, season and set aside. Preheat a grill or grill pan to high. Grill the lamb loaf or slices until cooked through and lightly charred, about 8 minutes per side. Let rest 5 minutes, then slice or shave thinly. Toast the pita cubes in 2 tablespoons of butter in a skillet over medium heat until golden and crisp. In a saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon of butter, add the crushed tomatoes, tomato paste, paprika, and cayenne. Simmer 10 minutes. In a bowl, combine the yogurt with the minced garlic and a pinch of salt. In a small saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons of butter with 1 teaspoon of paprika until sizzling. To assemble, divide the toasted pita cubes among plates. Top with the shaved lamb. Pour the hot tomato sauce over the lamb. Add a generous spoonful of garlic yogurt on the side. Pour the sizzling paprika butter over the top at the table. Garnish with grilled tomato and pepper.

For a Crowd (serves 12): - Double the recipe and use a large vertical rotisserie if available, or grill the lamb in batches. The components can all be prepared ahead and assembled at the moment of serving.

Variations: - Original Bursa Style: Use lamb roasted on a vertical spit (döner) for the authentic texture. - Iskender with Chicken: Substitute chicken döner for the lamb, a common modern variation. - Vegetarian Iskender: Use grilled eggplant slices instead of lamb, over the pita and tomato sauce.

Pairing: Iskender kebab pairs with a Turkish red wine such as a Kalecik Karası or with a glass of ayran, the salty yogurt drink served with kebabs across Turkey. For a brunch gathering, a sparkling mimosa with pomegranate is a festive nod to the Turkish table. Serve with grilled vegetables and a shepherds salad of tomato, cucumber, and parsley. For another great grilled dish, try our Lebanese chicken shawarma.

Reference Links: - İskender Kebap (Bursa, 1867, İskender Efendi, vertical spit, İskenderoğlu family): Wikipedia - History of Kebapçı İskender (1867, Kayhan Bazaar, Bursa, Mehmetoğlu İskender Efendi): Kebapçı İskender

Pro Tips: The pita cubes must be toasted in butter, not just warmed, because they need to hold their crunch under the hot tomato sauce. The tomato sauce should be reduced and concentrated, not watery, because it is a sauce, not a soup. The garlic yogurt is the cooling counterpoint to the richness of the meat and butter, so do not skimp on it. The final pour of sizzling butter is the signature of the dish, and it must be done at the table, with the butter actively sizzling as it hits the sauce. If using ground lamb instead of sliced, do not overwork the meat, because pressed ground lamb becomes dense and tough. Serve immediately, because Iskender kebab does not hold, and the pita will go soft if it sits.