Tartufo di Pizzo allo Spumante

Tartufo di Pizzo is the ice cream that put a small Calabrian seaside town on the culinary map. A dome of chocolate and hazelnut gelato with a molten chocolate center, dusted with cocoa powder and rolled in crushed nuts — it looks like a truffle (tartufo in Italian), and it's one of the most spectacular ice cream desserts in Italy.

The Tartufo di Pizzo was created in 1952 by Giuseppe De Maria, known as Don Pippo, the owner of Bar Dante in Piazza della Repubblica in Pizzo, Calabria. According to the story, Don Pippo was preparing gelato for a celebration honoring an aristocratic guest — some say it was a relative of King Victor Emmanuel II. He didn't have enough molds for individual portions, so he improvised: he scooped gelato into his hands, pressed a piece of chocolate into the center, shaped it into a ball, and rolled it in cocoa powder and nuts. The result was an instant sensation. Bar Dante still exists in Pizzo, and the Tartufo di Pizzo has been recognized with PAT status (Prodotto Agroalimentare Tradizionale — a Traditional Agricultural Food Product) by the Italian government.

The original Tartufo di Pizzo is made with two flavors of gelato — chocolate and hazelnut — and has a heart of melted dark chocolate. The outer coating is cocoa powder and sometimes chopped hazelnuts. When you cut into it, the molten chocolate center flows out, creating one of the most dramatic dessert presentations in Italian cuisine.

Our Mimosavated version infuses the gelato base with Spumante (Italian sparkling wine), which adds a bright, slightly acidic note that cuts through the richness of the chocolate and hazelnut. The Spumante doesn't make the gelato taste like sparkling wine — it makes it taste fresher, more vibrant, more like a summer evening in Pizzo. The molten center is dark chocolate spiked with a splash of Spumante for an extra hit of flavor.

Ingredients (makes 8 tartufi):

The Hazelnut Gelato: - 2 ⅛ cups whole milk - 1 ¼ cups heavy cream - 5 ¼ oz granulated sugar - 6 large egg yolks - 5 ¼ oz hazelnut paste (pasta di nocciole — available at specialty stores, or make your own by grinding toasted skinned hazelnuts with oil until smooth) - ⅓ cup Spumante (Italian sparkling wine, brut) - 1 teaspoon vanilla extract - A pinch of salt

The Chocolate Gelato: - 1 ⅔ cups whole milk - ⅞ cup heavy cream - 4 ¼ oz granulated sugar - 4 large egg yolks - 2 ⅛ oz unsweetened cocoa powder - 1 ¾ oz dark chocolate (70% cocoa), melted - 2 ⅔ tbsp Spumante - A pinch of salt

The Molten Chocolate Center: - 5 ¼ oz dark chocolate (70% cocoa), chopped - ⅓ cup heavy cream - 2 tbsp Spumante - 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

The Coating: - 1 ¾ oz unsweetened cocoa powder - 3 ½ oz hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and finely chopped

Making the Hazelnut Gelato: Warm the milk and cream in a saucepan until just below boiling. In a heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt until thick and pale. Slowly pour the warm milk into the egg mixture, whisking constantly. Return to the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon — about 5 minutes. Do not boil.

Remove from heat and whisk in the hazelnut paste, Spumante, and vanilla until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve into a bowl, cover with plastic wrap on the surface, and chill completely. Churn in an ice cream maker according to manufacturer's instructions. Transfer to a container and freeze until firm.

Making the Chocolate Gelato: Repeat the same custard process with the milk, cream, egg yolks, sugar, and salt. When the custard thickens, whisk in the cocoa powder, melted dark chocolate, and Spumante until smooth. Strain, chill, and churn in the ice cream maker. Freeze until firm.

Making the Molten Center: Heat the cream until just below boiling. Pour over the chopped chocolate and let sit for 1 minute, then stir until smooth. Stir in the Spumante and butter until glossy. Let cool to room temperature — it should be thick but still pourable.

Shaping the Tartufi: This requires cold hands and quick work. Line 8 small bowls or cups (about ⅔ cup each) with plastic wrap. Spoon a layer of chocolate gelato into the bottom and up the sides of each cup, leaving a hollow in the center. Spoon a layer of hazelnut gelato on top, again leaving a hollow. Fill the hollow with about 1 tablespoon of the molten chocolate center. Top with more gelato to seal, smoothing the surface. Fold the plastic wrap over the top and freeze for at least 4 hours, until completely firm.

Coating and Serving: Unmold each tartufo by dipping the bottom of the cup in warm water for 3 seconds, then inverting onto a plate. Roll the tartufo in cocoa powder, then in chopped hazelnuts, pressing gently so they adhere. Return to the freezer for 30 minutes to set the coating.

To serve, cut the tartufo in half with a hot knife — the molten chocolate center should flow out dramatically. Serve immediately, with a glass of Spumante alongside.

The Mimosa Pairing Logic: Since the gelato contains Spumante, pair with a classic Prosecco mimosa — orange juice and Prosecco. The citrus will cut through the richness of the chocolate and hazelnut. For a more adventurous pairing, a blood orange mimosa is inspired — the blood orange adds a bittersweet citrus note that complements the dark chocolate molten center. Avoid sweet mimosas — the tartufo is already rich and sweet, and you need something with acidity to balance it.

Reference Links: - Tartufo di Pizzo on Wikipedia (Giuseppe De Maria, Bar Dante, 1952): Wikipedia - Tartufo di Pizzo history and Calabria: Great Italian Chefs - Original 1952 Calabrian recipe: La Pa - Tartufo di Pizzo and Pizzo Calabro: Italy Scapes - Spumante Italian sparkling wine guide: Wine Folly

Make-Ahead: The gelato bases can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept in the refrigerator before churning. The churned gelato can be frozen for up to 1 week before shaping. The assembled tartufi can be frozen for up to 1 month — in fact, they need at least 4 hours to set properly. The molten chocolate center can be made ahead and gently rewarmed. Once coated, keep the tartufi frozen until ready to serve; they soften quickly at room temperature.

Pro Tips: Use high-quality hazelnut paste — it's the key ingredient in the hazelnut gelato, and cheap substitutes will taste flat. If you can't find hazelnut paste, make your own by grinding toasted, skinned hazelnuts in a food processor with a little neutral oil until smooth and spreadable. Work quickly when shaping the tartufi — gelato melts fast, and if it gets too soft, the molten center will leak out. Keep unused gelato in the freezer between steps. The molten center must be cool but still pourable when you add it — if it's too warm, it will melt the gelato; if it's too cold, it won't flow when served. Always serve with a hot knife for the dramatic cut — dip the knife in hot water, wipe dry, cut straight down, and pull the two halves apart to reveal the flowing chocolate center.