The New Orleans Shrimp Po'Boy: The Sandwich Born of the 1929 Streetcar Strike

The po'boy is New Orleans' great contribution to the sandwich canon: a length of the city's signature crisp-crusted French bread, overstuffed — fried shrimp above all — and "dressed" with shredded lettuce, tomato, pickles, and mayonnaise. The sandwich has a precise birthdate and a labor story. According to Wikipedia, the sandwich was created in 1929 by the Martin brothers — Bennie and Clovis, former streetcar conductors — at their French Market restaurant to feed the striking streetcar workers of the 1929 transit strike; the story goes that when a striker came by, one would call out, "here comes another poor boy." Parkway Bakery and Tavern, one of the city's most storied po'boy houses, keeps the same origin on its own history page, and The Lost Cajun recounts the messy, debated history behind the legend.

The shrimp po'boy is the king of the species. Gulf shrimp, shelled and butterflied, go into a seasoned cornmeal-flour crust and come out golden, stacked hot into the bread, and dressed while the steam still softens the crumb. It is a sandwich eaten with both hands, a stack of napkins, and an ice-cold drink — which is where we come in.

About the Ingredients

Gulf shrimp — medium-large, shell-on until the last minute; the po'boy wants a sweet, firm shrimp that can hold up under frying and dressing.

The crust — a 50/50 blend of cornmeal and flour with Cajun seasoning, paprika, and a little cayenne; the cornmeal gives the crunch that flour alone never can.

New Orleans French bread — the true po'boy foundation: a shatteringly crisp crust and cottony interior; a proper po'boy loaf cracks audibly when pressed.

The dressing — shredded iceberg, thin-sliced tomato, dill pickles, and mayo; remoulade is the optional upgrade that most of the city chooses.

Ingredients (serves 4): - 1 lb large Gulf shrimp, peeled and butterflied - 3/4 cup cornmeal - 3/4 cup all-purpose flour - 1 tbsp Cajun seasoning - 1 tsp paprika - 1/2 tsp cayenne (optional) - 1 tsp salt, 1/2 tsp black pepper - 1 cup buttermilk - Neutral oil for frying - Two 12-inch loaves of crusty French bread, split lengthwise - Shredded iceberg lettuce, thin tomato slices, dill pickles, mayonnaise or remoulade, hot sauce

Instructions: Heat 1 1/2 inches of oil to 375°F. Whisk the cornmeal, flour, seasonings, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Soak the shrimp in the buttermilk, then dredge in the seasoned cornmeal, pressing gently so the crust adheres. Fry in batches 2–3 minutes, until deep golden and curled, and drain on a wire rack. Toast the split bread lightly, slather both sides generously with mayo or remoulade, and dress with lettuce, tomato, and pickles. Pile the hot shrimp onto the bottom loaves, cap with the top loaves, press gently — you should hear the crust crack — and cut each loaf in half. Four poor boys, fed properly, as the Martin brothers intended.

The Mimosa Pairing Logic: Fried, spiced shrimp and cold sparkling citrus is a match made on the Gulf. A grapefruit rosemary mimosa is the connoisseur's pick — the grapefruit's gentle bitterness resets the palate after every rich, crunchy bite, and the rosemary nods to the bayou. A cucumber mint mimosa is the cooler, crisper alternative — the city in summer, in a glass. This is the New Orleans brunch, so raise the glass before the sandwich falls apart.

Reference Links: - Po' boy (1929 streetcar strike, Martin brothers): Wikipedia - History of the Poor Boy: Parkway Bakery and Tavern - The messy history of the po-boy: The Lost Cajun

Make-Ahead: The remoulade and the breading station can be made hours ahead; the bread can be dressed up to the lettuce stage. But the shrimp must be fried to order — a po'boy assembled ahead is a po'boy betrayed. Fry in small batches, pass hot, and toast the bread while the last shrimp drain.

Pro Tips: Butterfly the shrimp so they curl tight and stay flat in the sandwich. Dry the shrimp before the buttermilk so the crust clings. Oil at a steady 375°F — too cool and the cornmeal drinks grease. Dress the bread fully before the shrimp land, so the sandwich assembles in seconds. And never press a po'boy gently: the crack of the bread is the blessing.