Georgia Brunswick Stew: The 1898 St. Simons Island Pot and the Southern Barbecue Tradition

On July 2, 1898, on St. Simons Island off the Georgia coast, a group of hunters and cooks gathered around a large iron pot and cooked what they called Brunswick stew. A plaque on that very pot, which still sits in front of the Farmers Market pavilion in Brunswick, Georgia, declares it the vessel in which the first Brunswick stew was made. Whether the claim is fact or folklore is debated, because Brunswick County, Virginia, makes the same claim for the year 1828, when a state legislator's cook supposedly invented the stew on a hunting expedition. What is not debated is that the stew itself is real, old, and distinctly Southern, a thick tomato-based pot of vegetables and meat that has been served at Georgia barbecues and church suppers for more than a century (New Georgia Encyclopedia — Brunswick Stew; Wikipedia — Brunswick Stew).

The original stew was a campfire dish built on whatever small game the hunters brought back. Squirrel, rabbit, and even opossum went into the pot, along with tomatoes, lima beans, corn, and okra. James Beard documented a squirrel version in his _James Beard's American Cookery_, and Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings wrote about it in her _Cross Creek Cookery_ of 1942. Today, chicken and pork have largely replaced the game, but the character of the stew is unchanged. It is slow-cooked for hours until thick, and it is served alongside pulled pork and coleslaw at every Georgia barbecue worth its salt. The stew is communal by nature, made in enormous batches for crowds, and it is one of the few dishes that is genuinely better the next day.

Ingredients (serves 6): - 1 lb boneless chicken thighs, cut into chunks - ½ lb pork shoulder, cut into small pieces - 1 large onion, chopped - 2 cups canned crushed tomatoes - 1 cup frozen lima beans - 1 cup frozen corn kernels - 1 cup diced potatoes - ½ cup sliced okra - ½ cup ketchup - 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce - 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar - 1 teaspoon smoked paprika - ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper - 2 bay leaves - 4 cups chicken stock - 2 tablespoons vegetable oil - Salt and black pepper, to taste

Instructions: In a large heavy pot or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat and brown the chicken and pork in batches. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 6 minutes. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, paprika, cayenne, and bay leaves. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, cover, and cook for 1 hour. Add the lima beans, corn, potatoes, and okra. Continue to simmer, partially covered, for another 45 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and the stew has thickened. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the bay leaves before serving.

For a Crowd (serves 12): - Double all ingredients and use a large stockpot. Brunswick stew is traditionally made in large batches for barbecue gatherings. It improves overnight, so make it a day ahead and reheat gently.

Variations: - Virginia Style: Use rabbit or squirrel instead of chicken, and add a handful of butter beans for the Virginia tradition. - Georgia Pork and Chicken: Use equal parts pulled pork and chicken, the most common modern Georgia version. - Vegetarian Brunswick: Omit the meat and double the vegetables; add smoked paprika and a spoonful of liquid smoke for depth.

Pairing: Brunswick stew pairs with a cold American lager or a malty amber ale. For a brunch gathering, a bloody mary or a sparkling mimosa with tomato and celery notes echoes the stew's smoky warmth. Serve with cornbread, coleslaw, and pulled pork for the full Georgia barbecue spread. For a related main, try our Louisiana gumbo, another Southern communal stew.

Reference Links: - Brunswick Stew (Georgia origin, 1898 pot, St. Simons Island, Virginia competing claim): New Georgia Encyclopedia - Brunswick Stew (tomato-based stew, squirrel, rabbit, James Beard, Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings): Wikipedia

Pro Tips: The stew must cook long enough to thicken; a thin Brunswick stew is a failed one. Let it simmer at least 90 minutes total, and if it is still loose, uncover and reduce for the last 20 minutes. The okra gives the stew its characteristic body, so do not skip it. If using fresh okra, sauté it briefly first to remove the slime. The stew is always better the next day, after the tomatoes and the meat have had a night to marry, so make it ahead and reheat gently. Serve it in bowls alongside the barbecue, not as a main course, because at a Georgia barbecue, Brunswick stew is a side dish, not the star.